Ok, so I’m proud to say that I think I’ve got the first (of what might be many) TEasy Strike + SparkyPWM + Arc Eye 2 set up complete.

Let’s start with the basics:

The Sparky PWM, soldered together to my liking

However, there’s a slight mod that’s required in order for this set up to work. 32teeth is already working a plan for how to allow people who don’t have soldering abilities to make this mod happen. This mod is only required for 20P ribbon cable powering (via TEasy Strike). This is also being taken care of in the next version of Sparky from what I understand.

That’s the power signal from the 20P header being patched to the main screw terminals, It’s also required to do the same for the Ground position (Pin 15 of the 20P header). I snagged a picture of just the 1 wire (VCC), but there needs to be 2.


The SparkyPWM mounted, the Basic Breakout board was populated with a 6 pin female header for modular connectivity. If I ever want to remove it I can. The connected wires are for an advanced modification (shown below).


Basic set up complete. After the little mod and prepping for arc eyes, connecting everything was really quick. No pics of the lights, sorry I didn’t take one…but be assured that all my buttons are glowing beautifully 🙂

A quick picture of my buttons with the Arc Eye 2’s in place. As you can see, the buttons are drilled to allow the headers to poke through, making the basic version of this mod 100% solderless when all 3 of these boards are used together 🙂

The only difficulty now is closing the top panel, the right side of things is rather spongy with wires, even keeping them as neat as I can. I may eventually get rid of the ground wires from the QDs and daisy chain just 1 ground connection to alleviate some stress, but for now it works.

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Now to the advanced mod. The FTDI serial to USB adapter is required for sparky configuration and firmware updates. Well…I didn’t want to have to plug in a second cable every time I wanted to configure, so I went for a single cable full operation.

I did this by expounding on the data lines, both the FTDI USB data lines, as well as the TEasy Strike’s USB data lines run to an Imp board, which is controlled via the RS switch. When RS is activated, I’m in FTDI mode and can configure the SparkyPWM. I’m currently running into some weirdities with configuration, but I’ll get those sorted soon with the help of 32teeth.


I also put a piece of tape on the 1x pins for the AE2’s, this is so that I can remove them all at once, and put them back on all at once without having to re-figure out which goes to which button.

Hope this helps get an idea of what’s to come.

 

Update to this:

I ran into an issue with my SparkyPWM, 32teeth and I have been discussing why this might happen but in the meantime I’ve got a workaround for anyone who experiences this issue. After about 30 minutes of play the SparkyPWM v1 seemed to have died on me, it turns out that the resonator (tiny chip at the front of the board that creates the clock signal) had died.

We’re not 100% sure of what caused it, but 32teeth is adjusting and moving to a new package for the resonator that I’ve suggested. For now, I’ve currently got this in my set up, the set up works like a champ now, no problems whatsoever. I removed the old SMT resonator and replaced it with this THT resonator, and if you do this just get any like this that run at 16 Mhz. This style of resonator is built like a tank, and if you’re searching on digikey or something just make sure you get a 16 Meg version with internal capacitors, you should be OK.