The USB Repair Tool is a small, easy to use, and solderless repair and replacement tool. It is designed to be both an emergency repair kit in the field, and a way to revive old controllers/peripherals when you’re out of plug and play options. Easy enough for the most novice of hand, it can also be used by those with a soldering skill set given the right circumstances.

Board Specs:

  • 4 x IDC terminals for solderless access
  • Completely solderless for basic applications
  • 1 x Mini USB connector standardized access
  • 1 x 2 position screw terminal for power
  • 1 x 4 position 0.1″ solder row
  • 1.00×1.55 inches (25.48×39.27 mm)!
  • Notched for zip tie grip
  • #4 screw hole for easy mounting


Basic use cases:

Use CasesOther Use Cases:

  • Solderless swap to detachable cable setups with Neutrik USB Passthrough connectors. Crimp to stubbed USB cable, run mini B -> A to mounted neutrik.
  • Installing an optical or otherwise powered device. Install Repair Tool, use the screw terminals to leech power without soldering.
  • Non-USB crimp for other cable types/splices. All signals are matched end to end so just pay attention.


The USB Repair Tool is designed to be small an inexpensive enough for any player to pick up and toss into their bag for emergencies in the field. How many times have you or your friends run into issues with your USB cable finally being shredded by the plastic case of your arcade stick enough to become completely unreliable in play?

The real problem becomes when the local tournament modder is so swamped they can’t repair your stick in time for the next match. With the USB Repair Tool  it’s a 10 minute fix, most of it being opening your case to get to the cable.

This isn’t just for arcade sticks though, as lots of pad users have these same problems with soldered cables being torn up from use. The board is safe to use externally as well, although it’s best if it’s put into an enclosure after the repair is done.

Let’s walk through it:

Step 1 – Locate the broken area of the cable.

If you find the damaged area is where the cable comes out of the stick, simply pull the cable back into the case a few inches so the damaged area can be repaired and fresh cable is then run out of the stick.

IMG_0703 IMG_0706Damaged cable courtesy of the edge of my work bench

Step 2 – Cut out the bad area, and use a knife or strip tool to expose the USB wires.

IMG_0707 IMG_0708You can expose this with a pair of scissors, a knife, or most anything sharp enough to cut the casing

Step 3 – With your forefinger and thumb, open up the IDC terminals.


Step 4 – Insert the USB cables into the IDC terminals.

Make sure you push them all the way in and can see the colors of the wires in the little windows. Once you see them in the windows, take your thumb and forefinger and press quick and firm until the terminals close. It’s important that they close ALL THE WAY.

IMG_0710 IMG_0711

At this point you can test your cable to confirm it’s alive again.

Step 5 (optional) – Use a zip tie to act as a strain relief.

Once confirmed to be up and operational, you can use a zip tie anchor with zip tie, or a #4 screw to mount the board. Alternatively, if this is say… outside of the controller, such as a repair being done on a pad and not a stick, you can utilize a zip tie to act as strain relief so the board can be kept safely external.

Simply swing the cables underneath, and run the zip tie between the notches. This will keep the pressure away from the terminals while it moves.

IMG_0712 IMG_0713

Step 6 (optional #2) – Put the assembly into an enclosure to avoid damaging it.

I don’t have a box picked out just yet, but there are some small Hammond enclosures that will probably work great. Eventually I’ll probably design one you can have 3D printed.